Just as my Amsterdam experience would not have been complete had I not partaken in the smoking of marijuana, so too, would my Parisian experience not have truly been complete without an authentic gypsy encounter.
Nancy, Marshall, my father, and myself were all heading to Notre Dame Cathedral from Pont Alexandre III bridge. We had just finished exploring the beautiful bridge and had taken many pictures. We were immersed in conversation when we saw a rather small lady that was walking our way stop and bend down to pick something up off the ground. Naturally we were curious, as she stopped but a foot or two in front of us, and then came over and asked if anyone had lost a ring. She then held up what had been on the ground. A rather large wedding band. Obviously belonging to a man. Upon further inspection we noticed that it was 18k gold, as there was a stamp on the inside of the ring indicating so.
We congratulated her on her find and were about to go our merry way when she asked if any of us would like the ring. She indicated in her broken English that it was really of no use to her and she did not want it. Right away I thought this was strange, and figured she was up to something, but if she wanted to give me the ring, fake or not I would take it. It would make a great souvenir with a great story behind it. So, I took the ring.
We then started again on our trek to Notre Dame. We got only a few feet however, before the tiny lady came running back up to us. She asked for money in return for the ring. Then the light bulb went on in all of our heads at once. This was a gypsy. She had planted the ring on the sidewalk, or used her pro gypsy magic to make it appear as if the ring had been sitting there..who knows, these people are masters of their craft. Now here she was, trying to sucker money out of us. I started laughing and said, "ohhhh, this is a scam, I get it. If you needed money you could have just asked for it." With that I gave her one Euro. But she obviously had had much more in mind. So, I simply gave her back her ring, saying that she was a great actress. We all applauded her performance as she walked away...and she in turn, gave us the finger.
I couldn't believe we really just had a gypsy encounter. We were told to beware of gypsies the whole trip, but just like anywhere else I have been warned about - Mexico, NYC etc..I didn't really expect for anything to happen. She did get one Euro for her trouble, but that is one Euro I would have given her regardless - as I said, she could have just asked. I immediately knew this encounter would make for a great story, though.
Esmeralda she was not, but she was a great character in that little page of my life. Nice try, gypsy.
Tuesday, June 12, 2012
Tuesday, June 5, 2012
Beautiful Bruges
Along with Amsterdam, Bruges is said to be the "Venice of the North." Of course, neither city really compares to Venice as far as the canals go. I admit I am a bit biased, because I still consider Venice my favorite city I have ever visited - though I think Venice may now be tied with Paris. But, canals or not, both Amsterdam and Bruges were amazing, beautiful places to visit. Bruges quaint charm is what really got me. Some areas looked like they were right out of a fairy tale; especially the Béguinage which had a courtyard just covered in flowers at the time that we visited.
Among many different places of interest, The Madonna of Bruges - found in the Church of Our Lady - is one of Bruge's highlights for sure. We set out on a quest to get to the church before it closed at 4pm. Or at least that's the time we thought it closed. When we got there we were relieved to find that the church wasn't closing until much later. Now, if only we could find the correct entrance...being with people from the tour group, which included friends Nancy and her husband Marshall, we all wandered about until a few people from our group decided to be daring and jump the turnstile in an area that was obviously not being used at the moment. Nancy and Marshall followed, as did I, being ever the risk taker. Even my dad joined in the shenanigans! Of course, we didn't get too far before we were approached by security, nicely asking us to go around and use a different entrance - and we all had a good laugh at what we had just done.
Once legally inside, we explored this beautiful church and found our way to the Madonna of Bruges; a sculpture of Mary holding the baby Jesus done by none other than Michelangelo.
After seeing the church we went and had some Belgian beer and Belgian fries in the town square, just chatting and people watching, taking it all in. Later on, Nancy and myself set out on our own little photography tour, finding some great hidden gems. Of course, our Belgian experience would not be complete without a trip to a chocolate shop. I had bought some chocolate in Brussels, but had not had my fill, and it seemed that every other store in Bruges was a chocolate shop! We went to a well known, and well reviewed shop called "The Chocolate Line" and it was definitely some of the best chocolate I have ever tasted.
The next day was a walking tour of Bruges, covering pretty much every place you should see, including the Basilica of the Holy Blood, where there is an elaborate tabernacle that supposedly holds the actual blood of Jesus Christ. The Basilica dates back to the 1100s.
So, as you can imagine, I took hundreds of pictures in Bruges. Here, I have posted only a handful - my favorites.
Below: The Madonna of Bruges
Here I am drinking a Belgian beer called Juliper, which I was later told was the Budweiser of Belgium! I never said I was a beer connoisseur. I thought it was delicious! ;)
Friday, June 1, 2012
Veneration of the Crown of Thorns
There was another rare, or rather, little known experience I got to have on my trip to Europe. I got to see the "Crown of Thorns" up close and personal at Notre Dame Cathedral.
For those that might not know what the Crown of Thorns is, let me enlighten you. Being raised in an extremely Catholic family, I feel I am more than qualified to do so! The Crown of Thorns was an instrument of torture and mockery that was placed on Jesus Christ's head by soldiers before he was crucified. The soldiers did this to mock the claims of Jesus that he was the "King of the Jews". It is basically a bunch of canes woven together in a circle, held together with gold threads, with many thorns attached to the crown. (At least that is what Notre Dame says it is.)
The Veneration of the Crown of Thorns takes place at Notre Dame Cathedral the first Friday of each month, for only a couple hours. The exception to this is during lent, when the Crown of Thorns is on display every Friday leading up to Easter. On Good Friday the crown is displayed from 10am to 5pm.
Of all the relics that Notre Dame has (a piece of the cross that Jesus was crucified on, and a nail that was used to nail him to the cross) The crown of thorns is considered the "most precious and most revered". Now, I am not a practicing Catholic anymore. I am not a practicing anything, as I don't believe in organized religion or the Christian idea of God, but it was an amazing opportunity to see this relic, because it is a part of history... A pretty BIG part of history. The funny part is, the Crown of Thorns has undergone a lot of studies and research, but it's authenticity can not be certified. The argument of its authenticity and the places this crown has been has spanned over 16 centuries and many different countries, and that is where the history part comes in...
In the year 409, Saint Paulinus of Nola makes mention of the crown being a relic kept in the basilica on Mount Zion in Jerusalem. There are accounts of it being seen again at the basilica at Mount Zion by Anthony the Martyr in 570. Between the 7th and 10th centuries the relic was moved to the Byzantine Emperors Chapel in Constantinople, to keep it safe from pillaging. By 1238 Latin Emperor Baldwin of Constantinople pawned the crown and other relics to a Venetian bank to get credit. Go figure.
Saint Louis, King of France paid back the Venetians in 1239 and brought the crown and other relics, back to France.
During the French Revolution, the relics were kept at the national library.
In 1801, they were given back to the archbishop of Paris, where they were placed in the Cathedral Treasury. They are still kept there today. These relics have been protected by the canons of the Metropolitan Basilica Chapter, who are in charge of venerations. They are guarded by the Knights of the Order of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem. This has been the way since being placed in the Cathedral Treasury.
So, as you can see, Catholic or not, the Crown of Thorns has some amazing history, and is something very special to view in person. Not only did we get to view it, but we got to go up to it and...umm...kiss it. Yeah, kiss it.
We went to Notre Dame on Good Friday, and we had expected to stand in line for a quite a while to see this stupendous relic - but the line moved fast, and before we knew it we were shuffling right along, up the center of Notre Dame Cathedral, heading for the altar. I was wondering what I was going to do about taking a picture of it, since it seemed disrespectful. Luckily my decision was made for me by a very stern and authoritative man behind me who berated me and anyone he saw with a camera, his thick French accent barking out the order "NO PHOTOS!" Since he was dressed in some military outfit and was most likely the equivalent of a U.S. Navy Seal, I complied. He was the ONLY French person I met on my trip that was less than cordial and pleasant. It didn't matter anyway though, once amongst the few people at the front of the line, you were directed by many fancy looking religious men up to the crown. It all happened so quick, however, it also happened in slow motion because I was a little freaked out about having to kiss something that about a trillion and a half other people have kissed. They wipe the crown with a cloth after every person, and they say the cloth is soaked in alcohol...but I just didn't want to take that risk. I panicked and really didn't know what I was going to do until the final moment when I was face to face with this most historic of relics...it sat on an extravagant plush red pillow, just taunting me - and in that final moment of do or die, I went for it. I bent down and pretended to kiss the crown. No actual contact made. The crown wiper guy did his crown wiping thing - everyone was a winner. Nobody suspected a thing. What a relief. I watched as my friend Nancy also pulled the fake kiss trick, and it was all I could do to keep from bursting out laughing in the middle of Notre Dame Cathedral. She is Jewish...but after that very Catholic ordeal she referred to herself as "Catholish".
I will keep this experience in my arsenal of random facts about me..not everyone can claim that they have kissed the Crown of Thorns! ;)
For those that might not know what the Crown of Thorns is, let me enlighten you. Being raised in an extremely Catholic family, I feel I am more than qualified to do so! The Crown of Thorns was an instrument of torture and mockery that was placed on Jesus Christ's head by soldiers before he was crucified. The soldiers did this to mock the claims of Jesus that he was the "King of the Jews". It is basically a bunch of canes woven together in a circle, held together with gold threads, with many thorns attached to the crown. (At least that is what Notre Dame says it is.)
The Veneration of the Crown of Thorns takes place at Notre Dame Cathedral the first Friday of each month, for only a couple hours. The exception to this is during lent, when the Crown of Thorns is on display every Friday leading up to Easter. On Good Friday the crown is displayed from 10am to 5pm.
Of all the relics that Notre Dame has (a piece of the cross that Jesus was crucified on, and a nail that was used to nail him to the cross) The crown of thorns is considered the "most precious and most revered". Now, I am not a practicing Catholic anymore. I am not a practicing anything, as I don't believe in organized religion or the Christian idea of God, but it was an amazing opportunity to see this relic, because it is a part of history... A pretty BIG part of history. The funny part is, the Crown of Thorns has undergone a lot of studies and research, but it's authenticity can not be certified. The argument of its authenticity and the places this crown has been has spanned over 16 centuries and many different countries, and that is where the history part comes in...
Saint Louis, King of France paid back the Venetians in 1239 and brought the crown and other relics, back to France.
During the French Revolution, the relics were kept at the national library.
In 1801, they were given back to the archbishop of Paris, where they were placed in the Cathedral Treasury. They are still kept there today. These relics have been protected by the canons of the Metropolitan Basilica Chapter, who are in charge of venerations. They are guarded by the Knights of the Order of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem. This has been the way since being placed in the Cathedral Treasury.
So, as you can see, Catholic or not, the Crown of Thorns has some amazing history, and is something very special to view in person. Not only did we get to view it, but we got to go up to it and...umm...kiss it. Yeah, kiss it.
We went to Notre Dame on Good Friday, and we had expected to stand in line for a quite a while to see this stupendous relic - but the line moved fast, and before we knew it we were shuffling right along, up the center of Notre Dame Cathedral, heading for the altar. I was wondering what I was going to do about taking a picture of it, since it seemed disrespectful. Luckily my decision was made for me by a very stern and authoritative man behind me who berated me and anyone he saw with a camera, his thick French accent barking out the order "NO PHOTOS!" Since he was dressed in some military outfit and was most likely the equivalent of a U.S. Navy Seal, I complied. He was the ONLY French person I met on my trip that was less than cordial and pleasant. It didn't matter anyway though, once amongst the few people at the front of the line, you were directed by many fancy looking religious men up to the crown. It all happened so quick, however, it also happened in slow motion because I was a little freaked out about having to kiss something that about a trillion and a half other people have kissed. They wipe the crown with a cloth after every person, and they say the cloth is soaked in alcohol...but I just didn't want to take that risk. I panicked and really didn't know what I was going to do until the final moment when I was face to face with this most historic of relics...it sat on an extravagant plush red pillow, just taunting me - and in that final moment of do or die, I went for it. I bent down and pretended to kiss the crown. No actual contact made. The crown wiper guy did his crown wiping thing - everyone was a winner. Nobody suspected a thing. What a relief. I watched as my friend Nancy also pulled the fake kiss trick, and it was all I could do to keep from bursting out laughing in the middle of Notre Dame Cathedral. She is Jewish...but after that very Catholic ordeal she referred to herself as "Catholish".
I will keep this experience in my arsenal of random facts about me..not everyone can claim that they have kissed the Crown of Thorns! ;)
Monday, May 21, 2012
Smoke 'Em While You Got 'Em
A few blog posts back, I wrote about my thoughts on smoking while I was in Amsterdam. I expressed my apathy regarding if I smoked or didn't smoke while visiting.Well, of course...I smoked. Some kind of hash joint mixed with weed. It was nice. I had just finished having about 4 or 5 Heinekens on top of two shots of fruit infused Jenever - a traditional Dutch liquor that is similar to gin, but tastes more like vodka to me. I was feeling pretty, pretty good. Truth be told, I'm glad I did it. As I walked around the Red Light District with my happy buzz, I felt like I had really completed the whole Amsterdam experience.
Now, I am very glad I did it, as it seems that there will be a ban on tourists being able to smoke starting January 2013. Or at least there will try to be...there is still a final appeal to be made to the supreme court, so I have read.
Netherlands Bans Pot For Foreigners
A quick Google search turns up many, many articles discussing the enforcement of a new law banning everyone but Dutch residents from access to coffee shops. The locals would be issued a "pass" that lets them into the shops, and everyone else would be turned away. This ban has already started in areas south of Amsterdam, where apparently there has been a lot of drug related crime. The rest of the country has until January before the law would take full effect.
This was a topic of discussion on my trip. The locals we talked to didn't seem too worried. They told us that this has been attempted before - and it never works out. They seem to think it would be something that would not really be enforced, if passed - at least not in Amsterdam.
It seems ridiculous to me. I can only imagine how much revenue Amsterdam makes from tourists visiting just coffee shops alone. To take that revenue away seems like a foolish idea, seeing as their economy is not doing too well as it is. Also, I really don't see this ban stopping anyone who really wants to smoke from smoking. It simply makes the Dutch resident a middle man. I don't think it is going to drastically reduce any crime, either.
I guess all there is to do is wait and see how this all pans out...but I am definitely glad I chose to smoke while I was there.
Friday, May 11, 2012
Keukenhof - Most Beautiful Spring Gardens in the World
I was in the right place at the right time for a couple of pretty rare things on my trip to Europe. Being able to experience the breath-taking Keukenhof Gardens in Holland was one of those rare things. It is only open from March 22 - May 20.
Keukenhof, located just south west of Amsterdam in a town named Lisse, is considered the world's largest flower garden. These meticulously maintained beautiful, sweeping gardens are situated on 15th century hunting grounds. The actual grounds of Castle Keukenhof are open all year round.
The drive from Amsterdam to Keukenhof alone was already gorgeous enough to boast about. Field after field of tulips on both sides of the road. All perfectly lined up rows in all different colors - like giant rectangular rainbows. Perfectly stunning views at every turn. This was what I had hoped for. This was what I had dreamed it would be. Upon arriving and passing through the entrance to the grounds was a small pool of water, in the middle of the pool stood a tall and very interesting fountain - it looked like a dandelion that is ready to be wished upon. A bit away from that, I could hear what I can only describe as the "old-timey" sounds of a strange mechanical...music machine.
As you can see in the video I took, the little figures all move in time, tapping their batons to their bells. Kinda creepy. Definitely cool. I stood under it's strange spell for probably longer than I should have before I finally snapped out of it and began to explore this floral fantasy land sprawling out before me in every direction.
I have never seen so many flowers in my life, and I have never seen more artistically arranged and unique displays of flowers in my life. I felt like Dorothy entering the land of Oz - the colors were so vibrant. Everything was so lush. I was lost in a gorgeous labyrinth of blooming pathways. Every different path leading to more and more beauty, meandering endlessly, introducing me to every flower known to man...or at least it seemed that way. At one point, I reached a pond filled with swans. The view from where I stood was just lovely. Overlooking rows of hot pink and pale pink tulips, emerald green grass that I'm sure rivals the greenest grasses of Ireland, perfect path ways winding along, scattered with trees standing guard here and there..and swans swimming gracefully by...such a vision.
After hours exploring Keukenhof, I was beyond tired. After all, I had been up well over 24 hours by this point. After checking in at the hotel at 6am, naturally the room wasn't going to be ready until afternoon...so the morning had been spent wandering the streets of Amsterdam, and then taking the train, followed by the Kekenhof shuttle to the gardens. I still can not believe how lucky I was to have been in Holland at the perfect time. I had not even heard of this place until right before my trip. And though I knew I wanted to see tulip fields, I certainly did not not know I would be fortunate enough to be around during the relatively small window of time the world famous Keukenhof gardens would be open! I'm a pretty lucky gal....
Tuesday, May 8, 2012
Like So Many Before Me...
I may be a little late to the party here, but I just saw the J'Adore commercial with Charlize Theron - the one that was shot at Versailles. It got me thinking about a few things...
1. I love getting that "I've been there!!" feeling you get when you watch things like this - commercials or movies or TV shows that highlight a famous place you have been. It makes you feel like you are in some special exclusive club, and in a way, you are. There is also that feeling of awe you get when reflecting about how many others have been there before you; famous/rich/historical/influential and otherwise. Wandering the very same halls and rooms, feeling the grandeur, the wonder, the extravagance of it all. Exploring the very same grounds you have tread. And so many people after you will experience the very same thing. It's an inspiring feeling. If those walls could talk - the stories they could tell!
2. How expensive must it have been to rent out Versailles for that commercial? I can not even fathom it.
3. Upon first watching the video I noticed the model that played Marilyn Monroe was spot on. I mean, really, really spot on. I have never seen a Marilyn look-a-like that was closer to looking like her. It was almost alarming. I had to back up a few times just out of sheer amazement. Everything right down to her body language was just uncanny. This of course, was because it was not a model playing Marilyn Monroe. It WAS in fact Marilyn Monroe, flawlessly added into the commercial à la CGI, along with Marlene Dietrich and Grace Kelly! You gotta love technology. Amazing.
4. I have decided I am ready to go back to France again! ;)
Naturally I have to add a picture of myself in the very place the J'Adore commercial was filmed.
Versailles. There I am. Standing there in the Hall of Mirrors - like so many before me. Not quite ready to strut down the runway for Dior...but, I am there. An experience I will not soon forget, that's for sure.
1. I love getting that "I've been there!!" feeling you get when you watch things like this - commercials or movies or TV shows that highlight a famous place you have been. It makes you feel like you are in some special exclusive club, and in a way, you are. There is also that feeling of awe you get when reflecting about how many others have been there before you; famous/rich/historical/influential and otherwise. Wandering the very same halls and rooms, feeling the grandeur, the wonder, the extravagance of it all. Exploring the very same grounds you have tread. And so many people after you will experience the very same thing. It's an inspiring feeling. If those walls could talk - the stories they could tell!
2. How expensive must it have been to rent out Versailles for that commercial? I can not even fathom it.
3. Upon first watching the video I noticed the model that played Marilyn Monroe was spot on. I mean, really, really spot on. I have never seen a Marilyn look-a-like that was closer to looking like her. It was almost alarming. I had to back up a few times just out of sheer amazement. Everything right down to her body language was just uncanny. This of course, was because it was not a model playing Marilyn Monroe. It WAS in fact Marilyn Monroe, flawlessly added into the commercial à la CGI, along with Marlene Dietrich and Grace Kelly! You gotta love technology. Amazing.
4. I have decided I am ready to go back to France again! ;)
Naturally I have to add a picture of myself in the very place the J'Adore commercial was filmed.
Versailles. There I am. Standing there in the Hall of Mirrors - like so many before me. Not quite ready to strut down the runway for Dior...but, I am there. An experience I will not soon forget, that's for sure.
Tuesday, April 17, 2012
Back From Europe - Quick Update
It comes and goes so fast. One minute you are thinking how your trip seems so very far away, and the next minute, you are back from all your travels, and back into the swing of your every day life - it is crazy.
This is just a quick update about my musical choices on this trip. Boy did I pick some good ones, and I love that I will forever link them to this past trip.
Bass Communion - "Atmospherics" This album is a compilation of short pieces from other Bass Communion albums. It was perfect to listen to while gazing out of the window at the clouds on the long flights to and from Europe.
Kate Bush - "Aerial" What a work of art. This album was released in 2005, and is one of the newest albums from KB. It is gorgeous. So many different elements, styles, incorporation. The first disc (or fist half) is named "A Sea of Honey" and has some truly beautiful songs. I also found it fitting that there is a song about Joan of Arc - "Joanni" - as she played a big part in the history of France. One of my favorite KB songs is also on this half of the album - "How to be Invisible".
The second half is named "A Sky of Honey" and is supposed to take place on a single summer day. There is the use of birds singing throughout this half, and KB at one point mimics the bird song, and it is very interesting. I really enjoyed it. It is so fun to get acquainted with new albums of artists that you already love - especially when the albums are as amazing as this.
TOOL "Salival" - This one is not new to me. But I need TOOL to be in my soundtrack anywhere I am. And really, their "No Quarter" cover is just superb. I could and have listened to that song over and over.
The Beach Boys - "Pet Sounds" - Another album that I have always loved. It is like bringing an old friend with you. It is familiar and comfortable, yet never loses it's touch. Never gets old. "Caroline, No" will always bring a tear to my eyes, no matter how many times I hear it. "Wouldn't it be Nice" will always make me smile. I will always relate to "I Just Wasn't Made For These Times" - the whole album is just timeless. Genius.
Porcupine Tree - "The Sky Moves Sideways" - I just love Porcupine Tree. They have so many albums that span so many different styles of music that it is hard to choose which album to give attention to. I had listened to The Sky Moves Sideways before, I knew I loved it - but I had time to really introduce myself to it and get to know it on this trip. On nights where I was still adjusting to the time change, I lay in my bed just immersed in this album. "Stars Die" of course, is just amazing, and I couldn't help but play it a few times in a row. I had a mix of all the different versions of this album which included different versions of "Moonloop" etc. Also, the "Moonloop" improv - very good stuff to listen to when you have nothing but time and can really dedicate yourself to the listening experience.
So, those were my main albums on the trip. Sprinkled here and there with some Beatles "Let it Be", "Dark Side of the Moon" and some solo Steven Wilson (Both "Insurgentes" and "Grace for Drowning") I made some great musical memories, and also discovered some really amazing new albums. These things are just as important to me on a trip as the actual places I visit - so it really made it that much better.
This is just a quick update about my musical choices on this trip. Boy did I pick some good ones, and I love that I will forever link them to this past trip.
Bass Communion - "Atmospherics" This album is a compilation of short pieces from other Bass Communion albums. It was perfect to listen to while gazing out of the window at the clouds on the long flights to and from Europe.
Kate Bush - "Aerial" What a work of art. This album was released in 2005, and is one of the newest albums from KB. It is gorgeous. So many different elements, styles, incorporation. The first disc (or fist half) is named "A Sea of Honey" and has some truly beautiful songs. I also found it fitting that there is a song about Joan of Arc - "Joanni" - as she played a big part in the history of France. One of my favorite KB songs is also on this half of the album - "How to be Invisible".
The second half is named "A Sky of Honey" and is supposed to take place on a single summer day. There is the use of birds singing throughout this half, and KB at one point mimics the bird song, and it is very interesting. I really enjoyed it. It is so fun to get acquainted with new albums of artists that you already love - especially when the albums are as amazing as this.
TOOL "Salival" - This one is not new to me. But I need TOOL to be in my soundtrack anywhere I am. And really, their "No Quarter" cover is just superb. I could and have listened to that song over and over.
The Beach Boys - "Pet Sounds" - Another album that I have always loved. It is like bringing an old friend with you. It is familiar and comfortable, yet never loses it's touch. Never gets old. "Caroline, No" will always bring a tear to my eyes, no matter how many times I hear it. "Wouldn't it be Nice" will always make me smile. I will always relate to "I Just Wasn't Made For These Times" - the whole album is just timeless. Genius.
Porcupine Tree - "The Sky Moves Sideways" - I just love Porcupine Tree. They have so many albums that span so many different styles of music that it is hard to choose which album to give attention to. I had listened to The Sky Moves Sideways before, I knew I loved it - but I had time to really introduce myself to it and get to know it on this trip. On nights where I was still adjusting to the time change, I lay in my bed just immersed in this album. "Stars Die" of course, is just amazing, and I couldn't help but play it a few times in a row. I had a mix of all the different versions of this album which included different versions of "Moonloop" etc. Also, the "Moonloop" improv - very good stuff to listen to when you have nothing but time and can really dedicate yourself to the listening experience.
So, those were my main albums on the trip. Sprinkled here and there with some Beatles "Let it Be", "Dark Side of the Moon" and some solo Steven Wilson (Both "Insurgentes" and "Grace for Drowning") I made some great musical memories, and also discovered some really amazing new albums. These things are just as important to me on a trip as the actual places I visit - so it really made it that much better.
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